However such has been the meteoric rise of Pinot Grigio over the last 5 years that it has usurped the fickle and beguiling “Noir” and has firmly established itself at the top of the Pinot tree. In fact, it is now the third most popular white grape in the UK, and looks set to pass Chardonnay in the next few months to become number 2 in the UK’s Top Ten. So what are the implications of this rags to riches story and what has it meant for Italian wines in general?

Firstly it’s important to note that Pinot Grigio isn’t an indigenous Italian grape (not that there’s a shortage of those in Italy,) but is in fact French in origin where it is known as Pinot Gris. In its spiritual heartland of Alsace, Pinot Gris makes wines that are richly textured, delightfully floral and delicately spiced. These wines are a far cry from many of the insipid, neutral, acid driven and bony offerings from Northern Italian regions such as Veneto or Trentino. I must hasten to add that there are some beautiful Pinot Grigio’s from this part of Italy, but these are sadly the exception rather than the rule. Too often they are dull and uninspiring – yet they seem to be the wines that the UK public are lapping up. Wine for people that don’t like wine is a criticism often heard from those within the wine trade. But is Pinot Grigio’s success such a bad thing?

Perhaps not for the good news is that the popularity of Pinot Grigio has led to somewhat of a renaissance in Italian white wines. Another much maligned Italian offering is Soave, also from the Veneto region and made principally from the Garganega grape. During the 1970’s Soave was the most widely sold DOC Italian wine in the US. However quality fell when vineyard areas were extended to keep up with demand, the vines were overcropped and the resultant wines became dull and uninspiring. However, when treated with a little care (and maybe a smattering of Chardonnay in the blend) Soave can be a wonderful wine, with an intriguing herbal and almond nose and more than a touch of minerality. Sales of Soave in the UK are up considerably as consumers have regained onfidence in Italian whites.  Fiano is another grape on the up, predominantly grown in Campania in the South where it produces complex nutty, medium bodied wines with strong spice and floral aromas.

It’s not just Italian still white wines that are riding high on the back of the Pinot Grigio effect. Prosecco is seriously challenging Cava at the value end of the sparkling market, and why not? Prosecco can be deliciously refreshing and a perfect party drink. My advice would be to look for Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, where the better examples tend to come from. It may cost a touch more, but then if you’re celebrating what’s a few quid? Better spent on a decent bottle of fizz than on that glass of Pinot...

Italy is now the second biggest player by volume in the UK off trade, an 8 percent increase in sales having taken it up to 14.9 million cases sold annually. So for those in the trade that moan about Pinot Grigio, you may wish to think again, as Italy has won the hearts and palates of the UK consumer, and for that you can thank a certain Mr Grigio.